Premium Pet Spiders and Supplies for Serious Keepers and Curious Beginners Alike

We offer a curated selection of captive-bred tarantulas and other sometimes other creatures, ranging from beginner-friendly species to unique, exotic, and rare varieties. Our available species is ever changing, but always vast, often exceeding over 100 varieties to choose from.

Our Live Arrival Guarantee (or LAG for short) is there to ensure that in the unfortunate, and very unlikely event that your new pet does not arrive in tip top shape, we will be sure to correct the situation for you, so that you can purchase in confidence. To read the LAG policy, please check our terms of service.

We ship nationwide (excluding Hawaii) using FedEx Priority Overnight services, ensuring fast and secure delivery. Each spider is carefully packaged with temperature control and protective materials to minimize stress and prevent injury during transit, giving you peace of mind for safe arrival.

In captivity, the diet of tarantulas and other spiders, generally consists of live, or freshly killed insects like crickets, roaches, and mealworms. Here at Shane's Spider, we use primarily redrunner roaches to nourish our extensive collection. We recommend sourcing feeders from reputable pet stores such as the Spoiled Spider in Helena, Montana or specialized online suppliers. Also remember, healthy food will make for healthier happier spiders, so make sure to feed and hydrate your feeders before offering them to your pets. Also, it is good to offer a regularly available secondary access to water for most species which can be provided by an appropriately sized water dish and/or lightly misting.

Feeding is one of those hard questions to give a blanket answer. For tarantulas, usually 1-2 appropriately sized prey items per week is a good place to start, but different species or other types of spiders, as well as the environment can effect the metabolic rate. Jumping spiders usually need to eat more often and we recommend several times per wee for them. Reminder that most of a spider's hydration comes from their food consumption, so hydrated feeders is so important. Now because not every spider and environment is the same, our recommendation is to watch the size of the spider's abdomen with regard to feeding. When the spider eats, they will store those resources in their abdomen, and they will use those for energy later, similar to more familiar animals storing fat, but with spiders, you want the total size to over time always be increasing. It doesn't need to be a fast change, as long as it's going the correct direction, your pet should be okay. If over the course of several meals, the abdomen is smaller, or the same the food intake should probably be increased. A small amount of shrinking between meals is not a concern and generally only the most astute viewers will notice it happen on small individuals as it is generally imperceptible on larger spiders. Also if your spider has a large and full abdomen, it can potentially fast for a very long time, and that is generally NOT a health concern, simply ensure the spider has regular access to water, and you can continue to offer food if you want, just be sure to remove uneaten feeders in a timely manner (we recommend within a day) to avoid future risk to a molting spider.

Note: a shrunken or wrinkled looking abdomen can sometimes also indicate a dehydrated spider, and sometimes correcting hydration will be needed before the spider will resume eating.

Nearly every spider is venomous, but tarantulas and the other species we typically have will all be non life threatening to a typical human, and if ever we offer a species that we consider to have a significant risk to a person, we will be sure to include that in the product description. But on a happy note, thee are actually very few spiders in the world with venom that is truly dangerous to people. There is however a wide range of unpleasantness potential, as there are over a thousand species of tarantulas and many times more species of other spiders. Within tarantulas, the general rule of thumb is that if the species originates from North America or South America, it typically has milder venom, with an unpleasantness likely comparable to a bee sting, while species from Africa, Australia, and Asia are assumed to be much more painful, severe, and long lasting and often cause other symptoms such as cramping or nausea.

Note: the proteins are very different from a bee sting, so it doesn't mean it will cause the same reaction, just that the pain is often compared as being similar in people without allergies or other special conditions which will dramatically change the reaction.

We provide ongoing care support beyond the point of sale. Our knowledgeable team (of shane) is available to answer questions, offer guidance on feeding, molting, or habitat issues, and help troubleshoot concerns to ensure your spider thrives long-term. In fact, we do our best to offer support and answer questions before a purchase, after the purchase, and to any other hobbyists who need help, even if the purchase was made elsewhere, though we do recommend going to your pet's source first for care to help comply with any potential LAG issues depending on their policy, but if you cannot trust the source, they will not respond, or you just need a second opinion, we are here and happy to help.

We always do our best to only buy captive bred (CB) animals to offer. While we accept that some level of Wild Caught (WC) is necessary for the hobby to gain new species, we do not personally wish to offer them, both for the sake of our mental health (it would not sit well with shane to flip WC animals just to make easier money) but also for the spiders health and the collection's health (ours and yours) because things like parasites and diseases are often very specific about hosts, the most likely vector to introduce a pathogen is through obtaining WC animals. That said, sometimes we do receive groups of spiders as a unit, such as when somebody leaves the hobby and we inherit their collection, and we don't often have a way to know about the origins of the individuals in the group, but we do try to be open and upfront if we believe there is a high likelihood of a spider we are offering being WC.

UVB lighting mimics a specific range of natural sunlight, which helps reptiles synthesize vitamin D3 which is essential for calcium absorption. Proper UVB prevents metabolic bone disease, supports growth, and improves overall health. While spiders don't require UVB, our store offers quality lighting and other supplies for reptiles and other exotic pets not exclusively limited to spiders.

Let me first say that the right enclosure, is very much dependent on the inhabitant and it's needs. We recommend that the enclosure grows with the spider. So for a small spiderling (sling for short) often a very small enclosure is used, and for an adult, a larger enclosure is used. Here at Shane's Spiders, we mostly use 40 dram vials for our small spiderlings, and upgrade into 32oz delicups as they grow, and from the cups they graduate into something more specifically chosen for the species. Spiders come in a wide assortment of habits and habitats and when there is a unique trait or behavior, it often comes with very specific environmental needs making a blanket answer inadequate, and our area of expertise is tarantulas, so I will only try to elaborate here on tarantulas. A general rule: a terrestrial species should should get something with floor space, where the dimensions about 2x the legspan of the spider or bigger in each direction, and the vertical height from the top of the substrate to the top of the enclosure is not more than about 1.5x the legspan. For arboreal spiders, floor space can be reduced and the vertical distance should be increased. Hides should be provided and can be basically anything that allows for snug spaces for the spider to make itself inconspicuous. For terrestrial species, the hide should generally have an open bottom allowing for the spider to dig within the hide to remodel to it's own specifications. For arboreal spiders, more vertical areas should be cluttered in such a way that snug or narrow areas are created which will allow the spider to feel secure while still allowing it to modify the area to it's preferences, and they often like to make at least 2 means of entrance. Some very popular items are leaves or plants (fake or real) cork bark, half coconuts, or other objects like the 3D printed designs created by us. :)

Note: If you choose to use or collect materials from outside, be sure it's from an area which is not likely to be contaminated with pesticides, or any other potentially toxic chemicals. Also avoid pine and cedar, as they can have naturally toxic properties.